Anuradha in India

Sri Nathji

Arrived in Nathdwar this morning at 8.30 am having travelled from Ajmer to Udaipur over night and two hours from Udaipur to Nathdwar this  morning.

This is the hometown of Sri Nathji, one of the most popular deities of Krishna in India. The deity is said to have been originally installed by Vajranabha, Krishna’s great-grandson about 5000 years ago and is depicted holding Govardhana Hill  He was rediscovered about 500 years ago and worshipped on Govardhana Hill before old Aurangzeb, still afflicted by CTSD (Compulsive Temple-Smashing -Disorder) caused him to be moved to Mewar first and then to Nathdwar around 1669.

The priests of the temple are followers of Vallabhyacarya (1479) and despite its  simple architectural style, the temple is said to be the second richest in India, after the Balaji temple in Tirupati.

I managed to make two darshans this morning and sit in with a group of local ladies preparing vegetables in the temple courtyard. The temple is packed at these times with everyone endearingly running in high spirits to see and be seen by him. Understandably no photos were allowed anywhere inside the beautiful simple homestead style temple.

Being the only Gauri (white one) there that day I received handfuls of blessings from all the ladies to send me on my tirtha yatra way stuffed with maha prasadam (food offered to the deities.)

I leave for Amedebad at 2pm and from there will travel overnight to Dwarka.

I met the gentle priest at the Gayatri temple with his pet dog Ganga. He obligingly let me take photographs in their tranquil oasis.

My Hosts on the Hill

I watched the sun set over Pushkar at the Gayatri temple before catching the last bus to Ajmer.

Sunset on Gayatri Temple Hill

Evening over Pushkar

I left feeling my first uncertain introduction to Pushkar had become a grateful farewell.

Pushkar

Arrived in Pushkar, Tuesday afternoon around 4 o’ clock. Pushkar is beautiful, with a lake surrounded by rugged hills on all sides. The lake, very much receded suggests little rain though the surrounding areas look lush and green.

Here is one of the very few places to find a temple to Brahma in India, and is said to be the place Brahma dropped flower petals that caused the appearance of three lakes. There are many different stories as to why Brahma is not worshipped.

One is that Brahma wanted to perform a yajna (fire sacrifice) at Pushkar but needed his wife with him to do so. Since she, Savitri was late, he married Gayatri, the priests daughter instead. But Brahma had not asked Savitri’s permission to do this so she cursed him so he would only to be worshipped at Pushkar. Along with Brahma’s temple (and about 400 other temples) there are two hills, one large and one small with temples to Savitri and Gayatri respectively.

Route to Savitri Temple

Three little incidents, along with the story of the Maharaja of Jaipur’s trip to England (see previous post), set me thinking about sacred territory and how the word ‘sacred’ with a single vowel shift changes to ‘scared’ and how fear can indeed shape territorial responses even in the realm of sacred territory or space.

I decided first to pay my respects to Pushkar lake but on approaching Badri ghat, where steps lead down to the water – or mud in this case – two crows did a Hitchcock (see film: Birds) and swooped down on my head twice. It was more of a push than a peck and I was glad to have my hair protectively piled high on my head. There must have been a nest nearby and the little dears were just being protective. I took my shoes off just in case religious etiquette might have been their problem, and since these were my first moments in sacred Pushkar, I was eager not to offend. Fear of offence is very real in sacred India.

Poised for strike two

Then as I sat out by the isolated lake edge, a chorus of dog barks started up. Not aggressive barks, more like: “Who are you and what are you doing on our turf?’ I did my best to pursue my contemplative moment until five of them came over for a sniff. That must have gone well as within seconds they were all over me benedicting me with the blessed mud of Pushkar lake and affectionately chewing my scarf and shirt to pieces. I gave up, and returned to the street looking like something from the swamp. Buying a new shirt and leaving the digested one behind, I thought how over-intrusive attention, in sacred spaces the world over can over-whelm reflective moments in our surroundings. Over zealous preachers; pushy priests with commercial interests; overly friendly advances or speaking for myself,

Badri Ghat

bombarding some poor unsuspecting sadhu with too many questions.

The third incident was at the Raghunath temple where I was promptly given my marching orders because I was a foreigner, irrespective of life-style or practice. A sign at the gate pronounced ‘ NO FOREIGNERS ALLOWED ‘. The guard was apologetic and kindly added that he did not think it was a good idea and was sorry I could not go in. I appreciated his sympathy and am glad this is the exception rather than the rule here.

I thought again of the Maharaja of Jaipur’s Ganges Urn story. Both incidents demonstrate an underpinning exclusive or elitist approach that withholds access to the sacred out of fear of contamination or pollution. Unlike the Maharaja of Jaipur, not even a bottle of Ganges water could counter-act contaminating influence in my case. Perhaps I should have tried rupees!

Protective, intrusive and exclusive approaches may be part of the multi-layered and complex interweaving of many strands in issues concerning the sacred, but it is my experience here that it cannot be limited by or to them.

Tonight at midnight I leave for Udaipur and from there to Nathdwar and Dwarka. That’s the plan. Let’s see what happens.

Spent yesterday morning (Tue 28^th) in Jaipur City Palace. Most interesting  for me were the two urns of Ganges water the Maharaj of Jaipur took to England in 1902. This water was for bathing and drinking whilst in England for the coronation of Edward the VII , and (along with a list of other prohibitions and injunctions ) prevented him from becoming impure by crossing the ocean and incurring penalties from the Brahmins. For more fascinating details see here.

Came upon this interesting article from the Times of India, Jaipur in the City Palace cafe.  Apparently there is a concern over the occurrence of child marriage in Rajasthan.  It was interesting to read the same bemoaning of the lack of substance on T.V we might read in the U.K, only here with  a uniquely Indian or Rajasthani slant.

T.V and Child marriage

Amber Fort

I spent most of my second day in Jaipur in Amber (11 kms from Jaipur) with its magnificent fort situated high on a hill. Formerly the capital of Jaipur state and the Rajput princes the fort today was initially a palace complex which stood within the earlier Jaigarh fort(11^th century). Its construction began under the reign of Maharaj Man Singh, Commander in Chief of Akbar’s army in 1592.

Apparently earlier history records that Amber was originally built by the Meenas in the town they consecrated to Amba, the Mother Goddess, whom they knew as `Gatta Rani’ or `Queen of the Pass’. This connection with the Goddess is still there and there is a beautiful marble Kali temple at the entrance. A goat was sacrificed daily here right up until 1980.

Multi-Tasking Family - The man wears the helmet in this family

On the busy and winding road to Amber we were over taken by a whole family on a moped. Not only were they all chatting away together, but they were also eating ice cream and passing roasted corn-on-the cobs around as they whizzed by. It was amazing. I love this about India. At home, you would be told it can’t be done,  and for legal, health and safety reasons you would not be allowed to do it. (It is legal for the driver to wear a helmet, but not for the passengers.)  Here such skillful driving is normal and I love the freedom that taking your own life in your hands affords.

The day was relaxed with refreshing breezes and cloud –cover and we ambled around the little village at the foot of the hill exploring its Jain and Hindu temples.Most impressive was the priest who took care of the deities  at the Jagat Shiromani Temple, also known as Mirabai’s temple. The Krishna deity there is said to that of Mirabai the celebrated devotional Rajput  medieval princess. The pujari, priest, spent ages meticulously polishing and decorating Krishna with face paint and yet he had time when he had finished to welcome us with great kindness and give us maha prasad.

Pujari to Mirabai's Krishna Deity

I left feeling Mirabai was not alone in her exceptional devotion to her Lord.

Priest to Mirabai's Krishna

On my last night in Vrindavan (Fri 24th) I was lucky enough to catch the start of the festival of Jhulan Yatra, the Radha Krishna swing festival at the famous Banke Bihari Temple, the most popular temple in Vrindavan.

Every year at this time the deities are put on a swing and bedecked with flowers. Some temples allow worshippers to participate in this festival by pulling the swing with a rope. Unfortunately no photos were allowed, but you can see the throne without the deities on their webpage photo gallery here

The temple was a forest of flowers and greenery and packed with pilgrims.The ornate golden throne on which the deity was swung was strewn with hundreds of garlands and everybody seemed intoxicated with the sheer delight of being there. Contagious stuff and a really uplifting send off from Vrindavan.

Next morning took the 6 hour bus journey to Jaipur. As we set off the whole bus sang songs to Banke bihari. That was the only word I understood. Seems they were a whole community or village who had travelled from Jaipur for the festival.I like travelling on buses as it offers more insight into life here than a taxi. And even though I unfortunately speak no Hindi, the language of travellers is universal. The sharing of food, water and space along with the non-verbal language of gesture and expression forge a comfortable camaraderie that doesn’t need words. I like this.

I arrived in Jaipur at midday was met by a friend who lives there and off we went zipping through city traffic on her moped. After a wash and change we were lucky enough to catch the annual festival of Teej, the festival for married ladies.

The deity of Parvati (wife of Shiva) is taken out on the streets preceded by a fabulous procession of Rajasthani colour, splendour and pomp.On this day married women pray for the well-being of their husbands and their marriage.We had a birds eye view from the roof-top of a temple.

Rajasthani dancers - the birds eye view

Elephants Everywhere

Festive Bulls

Parvati in procession

Parvati up close, although not so close that you can really see her

In the evening we zipped around the city on the scooter to catch the Julan Yatra celebrations at three temples whose original deities were transferred to Jaipur from Vrindavan for safe-keeping from Aurangazeb in the 17^th century . He’s the Mughal Emperor most famous among Hindus for smashing temples and desecrating deities.

Scooting in Jaipur

These temples are those established by the celebrated Goswamis of Vrindvan, the Govindaji Temple, Radha Damodar Temple and the Radha Gopinatha Temple. We also visited another small temple, Radha Vinod temple with beautiful flower mandala decorations on the floor.

Flower Mandala

Jaipur is beautiful. It seemed yesterday too to be filled with festivities….the festival of Teej on the streets and Jhulan Yatra in all the Krishna Temples. It was a tsunami of colourful celebration and I couldn’t have wished for a better introduction to the city.

Below is a youtube clip of evening worship at the Govindaji temple.  The enthusiasm of the crowds, the simplicity and sweetness of their chanting, and the welcoming informality of it all made for perfect endings to humid, bustling days in Jaipur

I went to a cow Hospital here in Vrindavan yesterday and sponsored a banana- fest on behalf of the OCHS for about a hundred variously disabled cows. Such charitable acts  are mean to be of great benefit to the sponsors and I reckon the OCHS needs all the help it can get. In any case the cows loved them even if the benefit remains invisible!

They’ve even got a few Nilagais (antelopes) there, some hit by cars or attacked and maimed by dogs as fawns. The dedication of the people who run this place  is amazing. All the animals have names and are treated with great kindness. It’s like something out of a child’s story book….except, unfortunately  those tales are usually  made up.

Where's the milk?

The most amazing thing was that just as I arrived at the hospital, a blind cow delivered a female calf. There were no other visitors there apart from me and a friend and since she practically dropped out at my feet, I decided to become her sponsor. I’ve named her Anjali and hope she gets to have a long and happy life. She can be the new mascot for the OCHS.

Anjali, the OCHS mascot

Fifteen minutes after she was born she could stand up and start looking for milk. The day before yesterday, Wednesday night, the old cow of earlier notes passed on.  Anjali with all her vital ‘newness’ dropped into the world the following day.

That merry go-round of samsara, or birth, death and rebirth is a central underpinning tenet of Hindu thinking. It may be impossible to trace the progressive journey of  the old cow, or any other living creature, but it’s certainly easy to recognise that we’re all on a conveyor belt here.

At least yesterday that seemed very clear to me.

The BBC ran an article on the solar eclipse that happened yesterday here. Seems everybody was out gazing at it.

Here’s the link.

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/science/nature/8161578.stm

Here in Vrindavan it was different. Such an event is considered inauspicious and auspicious at the same time. Certainly it is not recommended to stare at it.

The bad bit is that people here believe that it is so powerful  it can contaminate food and so no one cooks  during the time of the eclipse and for a period before and afterwards. Temples close for the duration as it  is thought the food offerings normally made would be  polluted. Restaurants close and if you eat at this time it is thought you will become ill.

The good side is that it is meant to be a very good time to practice religious ritual or perform devotional acts as their potency or benefit is magnified.  The whole town of Vrindavan took to the parikrama path, with husbands wives, children, sadhus, and just about everybody and their granny seemed to pass by the gate of my ashram, (which is on the parikrama path) all day long.

Rooftop view at 6am morning of eclipse

Govardhana Hill

I went on a carikrama ( that is parikrama by car and not on foot) to Govardhana last Monday. A parikrama is about 23 kilometres and takes about 5 to 6 hours to complete at a brisk pace. I preferred the travel-stop-and-linger mood the car enabled this time.

Govardhana Hill features most famously in the 10th book of the Bhagavata Purana where he (everything is personified in these stories) stars in the story of Krishna lifting him as an umbrella to protect the citizens of Vraja from torrential rain sent by an envious Indra.

The Bhagavat Purana writes:

Of all the devotees, this Govardhana Hill is the best! Of my friends, this hill supplies Krishna and Balaram, along with their calves,cows and cowherd friends, with all kinds of necessities-water for drinking,very soft grass,caves,fruits,flowers and vegetables.In this way the hill offers respects to thee Lord.Being touched by the lotus feet of Krishna and Balaram, Govardhana Hill appears very jubilant.‘ B.P 10.21.18

Theology aside, the recognition of the dependence we all have on nature with its bountiful and life sustaining offerings is appealing in todays climate of ecological catastrophe. The idea of reciprocal respect and co-existence reverberates throughout the Hindu scriptures and our Govardhan visit offered a refreshing alternative to more impersonal and exploitative considerations of the natural world.

Govardhan is about an hours drive fromVrindavan and before setting out on our walk we bathed in two beautiful lakes or kunds, Radha- Kund and Shyama -Kund considered sacred lakes to devotees of Krishna.

Radha Kund

Reverential Geese

Seems like we got some blessings since what might have been a walk in the searing sand and heat, turned out to be the coolest day so far. Dark clouds, rolling thunder and cooling breezes framed our pilgimage and we saw peacocks, Nilagais (meaning ‘blue cow’) a type of antelope, electric green parrots, monkeys galore, cows and buffalos.

Nilagai, the 'blue cows' of Govardhana

Pilgrims construct little houses all along the flank of the hill to house prayers, to have ones home blessed, or in some sense to reside here long after leaving. I built a little OCHS, very similar to the one in Oxford and impressed at least one resident with my architectural flair.

The Govardhan branch of the OCHS

Some pilgrims circumnambulate Govardhan over several weeks by daily performing prostrations all around the hill. They mark with a stone each arm extension and proceed with the next prostration from there. It is called dandavat parikrama. I thought a pilgrimage in Ireland up a mountain(Croach Patrick) in bare feet was something but so far this takes the biscuit. Sorry, the digital camera just missed the ‘down’ moment.

Dandavat Parikrama