NAMAKKAL
This was a busy day, meaning a day with a lot of bus. Tiruchirappalli to Namakkal was an eight hour return journey in the morning, and then 5 hours return trip to Thanjavur (Tanjore) in the afternoon, but it was worth every bit of it…bumps and all.
At Namakkal there is the Digambara Anjaneya Temple where a huge deity of Hanuman is bathed (abhishek) with various auspicious substances every day at 11am. The whole process takes about an hour, is accompanied by music and cheers and attracts a full house to its semi-open temple.
The experience defies all rational explanation as to why a ritual of showering preparations of milk; of turmeric; of sandalwood; of yogurt; of rose water; of flowers etc. over the deity by some priests should arouse such fervent enthusiasm.
Yet, sitting there , with streams of shifting liquid colour silhouetting the form of the deity; accompanied by music and celebratory cheers with each showering ; and with all the stories of Hanuman’s heroism and devotion surfacing within with the awakening from without, I too felt the point of this sweet ritual. But don’t ask me why!
TANJORE
The Brihadeswara or Rajarajeswara Temple in Tanjore, dedicated to Lord Shiva, and built by Rajaraja Chola in 1010 A.D., is the largest and highest of the Chola temples and stands as a symbol of Chola greatness.
It is probably the most impressive place to visit in terms of immediate impact. With its immaculately maintained temple complex and a constant stream of international visitors it is feels like the World Heritage site it really is.
Arriving here in the evening was a lucky stroke. Gentle breezes banished clammy clothes and the setting sun bathed the sandalwood hued stone in a glowing ethereal light. The paving underfoot was cool allowing for a peaceful and unhurried visit.
The many sculptures of Nandi, Shiva’s bull, along the top of the peripheral wall were silhouetted beautifully against the evening sky and the temple priests of the gigantic Brihadeshwara Shiva Linga were courteousness and welcoming.