July 29, 2009
I met the gentle priest at the Gayatri temple with his pet dog Ganga. He obligingly let me take photographs in their tranquil oasis.
My Hosts on the Hill
I watched the sun set over Pushkar at the Gayatri temple before catching the last bus to Ajmer.
Sunset on Gayatri Temple Hill
Evening over Pushkar
I left feeling my first uncertain introduction to Pushkar had become a grateful farewell.
July 29, 2009
Pushkar
Arrived in Pushkar, Tuesday afternoon around 4 o’ clock. Pushkar is beautiful, with a lake surrounded by rugged hills on all sides. The lake, very much receded suggests little rain though the surrounding areas look lush and green.
Here is one of the very few places to find a temple to Brahma in India, and is said to be the place Brahma dropped flower petals that caused the appearance of three lakes. There are many different stories as to why Brahma is not worshipped.
One is that Brahma wanted to perform a yajna (fire sacrifice) at Pushkar but needed his wife with him to do so. Since she, Savitri was late, he married Gayatri, the priests daughter instead. But Brahma had not asked Savitri’s permission to do this so she cursed him so he would only to be worshipped at Pushkar. Along with Brahma’s temple (and about 400 other temples) there are two hills, one large and one small with temples to Savitri and Gayatri respectively.
Route to Savitri Temple
Three little incidents, along with the story of the Maharaja of Jaipur’s trip to England (see previous post), set me thinking about sacred territory and how the word ‘sacred’ with a single vowel shift changes to ‘scared’ and how fear can indeed shape territorial responses even in the realm of sacred territory or space.
I decided first to pay my respects to Pushkar lake but on approaching Badri ghat, where steps lead down to the water – or mud in this case – two crows did a Hitchcock (see film: Birds) and swooped down on my head twice. It was more of a push than a peck and I was glad to have my hair protectively piled high on my head. There must have been a nest nearby and the little dears were just being protective. I took my shoes off just in case religious etiquette might have been their problem, and since these were my first moments in sacred Pushkar, I was eager not to offend. Fear of offence is very real in sacred India.
Poised for strike two
Then as I sat out by the isolated lake edge, a chorus of dog barks started up. Not aggressive barks, more like: “Who are you and what are you doing on our turf?’ I did my best to pursue my contemplative moment until five of them came over for a sniff. That must have gone well as within seconds they were all over me benedicting me with the blessed mud of Pushkar lake and affectionately chewing my scarf and shirt to pieces. I gave up, and returned to the street looking like something from the swamp. Buying a new shirt and leaving the digested one behind, I thought how over-intrusive attention, in sacred spaces the world over can over-whelm reflective moments in our surroundings. Over zealous preachers; pushy priests with commercial interests; overly friendly advances or speaking for myself,
Badri Ghat
bombarding some poor unsuspecting sadhu with too many questions.
The third incident was at the Raghunath temple where I was promptly given my marching orders because I was a foreigner, irrespective of life-style or practice. A sign at the gate pronounced ‘ NO FOREIGNERS ALLOWED ‘. The guard was apologetic and kindly added that he did not think it was a good idea and was sorry I could not go in. I appreciated his sympathy and am glad this is the exception rather than the rule here.
I thought again of the Maharaja of Jaipur’s Ganges Urn story. Both incidents demonstrate an underpinning exclusive or elitist approach that withholds access to the sacred out of fear of contamination or pollution. Unlike the Maharaja of Jaipur, not even a bottle of Ganges water could counter-act contaminating influence in my case. Perhaps I should have tried rupees!
Protective, intrusive and exclusive approaches may be part of the multi-layered and complex interweaving of many strands in issues concerning the sacred, but it is my experience here that it cannot be limited by or to them.
Tonight at midnight I leave for Udaipur and from there to Nathdwar and Dwarka. That’s the plan. Let’s see what happens.
July 29, 2009
Spent yesterday morning (Tue 28th) in Jaipur City Palace. Most interesting for me were the two urns of Ganges water the Maharaj of Jaipur took to England in 1902. This water was for bathing and drinking whilst in England for the coronation of Edward the VII , and (along with a list of other prohibitions and injunctions ) prevented him from becoming impure by crossing the ocean and incurring penalties from the Brahmins. For more fascinating details see here.
July 29, 2009
Came upon this interesting article from the Times of India, Jaipur in the City Palace cafe. Apparently there is a concern over the occurrence of child marriage in Rajasthan. It was interesting to read the same bemoaning of the lack of substance on T.V we might read in the U.K, only here with a uniquely Indian or Rajasthani slant.
T.V and Child marriage
July 27, 2009
Amber Fort
I spent most of my second day in Jaipur in Amber (11 kms from Jaipur) with its magnificent fort situated high on a hill. Formerly the capital of Jaipur state and the Rajput princes the fort today was initially a palace complex which stood within the earlier Jaigarh fort(11th century). Its construction began under the reign of Maharaj Man Singh, Commander in Chief of Akbar’s army in 1592.
Apparently earlier history records that Amber was originally built by the Meenas in the town they consecrated to Amba, the Mother Goddess, whom they knew as `Gatta Rani’ or `Queen of the Pass’. This connection with the Goddess is still there and there is a beautiful marble Kali temple at the entrance. A goat was sacrificed daily here right up until 1980.
Multi-Tasking Family - The man wears the helmet in this family
On the busy and winding road to Amber we were over taken by a whole family on a moped. Not only were they all chatting away together, but they were also eating ice cream and passing roasted corn-on-the cobs around as they whizzed by. It was amazing. I love this about India. At home, you would be told it can’t be done, and for legal, health and safety reasons you would not be allowed to do it. (It is legal for the driver to wear a helmet, but not for the passengers.) Here such skillful driving is normal and I love the freedom that taking your own life in your hands affords.
The day was relaxed with refreshing breezes and cloud –cover and we ambled around the little village at the foot of the hill exploring its Jain and Hindu temples.Most impressive was the priest who took care of the deities at the Jagat Shiromani Temple, also known as Mirabai’s temple. The Krishna deity there is said to that of Mirabai the celebrated devotional Rajput medieval princess. The pujari, priest, spent ages meticulously polishing and decorating Krishna with face paint and yet he had time when he had finished to welcome us with great kindness and give us maha prasad.
Pujari to Mirabai's Krishna Deity
I left feeling Mirabai was not alone in her exceptional devotion to her Lord.
Priest to Mirabai's Krishna
July 26, 2009
On my last night in Vrindavan (Fri 24th) I was lucky enough to catch the start of the festival of Jhulan Yatra, the Radha Krishna swing festival at the famous Banke Bihari Temple, the most popular temple in Vrindavan.
Every year at this time the deities are put on a swing and bedecked with flowers. Some temples allow worshippers to participate in this festival by pulling the swing with a rope. Unfortunately no photos were allowed, but you can see the throne without the deities on their webpage photo gallery here
The temple was a forest of flowers and greenery and packed with pilgrims.The ornate golden throne on which the deity was swung was strewn with hundreds of garlands and everybody seemed intoxicated with the sheer delight of being there. Contagious stuff and a really uplifting send off from Vrindavan.
Next morning took the 6 hour bus journey to Jaipur. As we set off the whole bus sang songs to Banke bihari. That was the only word I understood. Seems they were a whole community or village who had travelled from Jaipur for the festival.I like travelling on buses as it offers more insight into life here than a taxi. And even though I unfortunately speak no Hindi, the language of travellers is universal. The sharing of food, water and space along with the non-verbal language of gesture and expression forge a comfortable camaraderie that doesn’t need words. I like this.
I arrived in Jaipur at midday was met by a friend who lives there and off we went zipping through city traffic on her moped. After a wash and change we were lucky enough to catch the annual festival of Teej, the festival for married ladies.
The deity of Parvati (wife of Shiva) is taken out on the streets preceded by a fabulous procession of Rajasthani colour, splendour and pomp.On this day married women pray for the well-being of their husbands and their marriage.We had a birds eye view from the roof-top of a temple.
Rajasthani dancers - the birds eye view
Elephants Everywhere
Festive Bulls
Parvati in procession
Parvati up close, although not so close that you can really see her
In the evening we zipped around the city on the scooter to catch the Julan Yatra celebrations at three temples whose original deities were transferred to Jaipur from Vrindavan for safe-keeping from Aurangazeb in the 17th century . He’s the Mughal Emperor most famous among Hindus for smashing temples and desecrating deities.
Scooting in Jaipur
These temples are those established by the celebrated Goswamis of Vrindvan, the Govindaji Temple, Radha Damodar Temple and the Radha Gopinatha Temple. We also visited another small temple, Radha Vinod temple with beautiful flower mandala decorations on the floor.
Flower Mandala
Jaipur is beautiful. It seemed yesterday too to be filled with festivities….the festival of Teej on the streets and Jhulan Yatra in all the Krishna Temples. It was a tsunami of colourful celebration and I couldn’t have wished for a better introduction to the city.
Below is a youtube clip of evening worship at the Govindaji temple. The enthusiasm of the crowds, the simplicity and sweetness of their chanting, and the welcoming informality of it all made for perfect endings to humid, bustling days in Jaipur
Anuradha in India 